Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
